When the spring floral sources have not yet bloomed, Brood Builder and pollen substitutes get the honey bees going, and ready to visit the flowers when they bloom and have the nectar available. Our AP23® Winter patties help to keep the honey bees alive when the winter is ending, a critical time of the year when honey bees often starve. Whatever the situation you can count on our bee feed to contain all the fat, fibers, and protein your happy little bees will need. These feeds are tailored to various situations, either as a general purpose feed, sustaining your bees during the winter or to build brood.
Many beekeepers use sugar syrup to sustain their bees, but this method lacks some of the essential nutrients a bee needs to survive and stay healthy. The best food for feeding bees in the winter is, of course, the one they make for themselves: their own honey, but sometimes that isn’t possible. With more mouths to feed, a colony will appreciate extra help to sustain itself during the early spring months. Oftentimes, feeding bees during the spring lets them get a head start on the spring flowers and will help the bees build up the colony for the honey flow that follows the spring build-up of honey bees. Beekeepers can also stimulate the honey bees into raising a brood before the natural stimulants are abundant. Carlyle Bee Pollen Supplement 1000mg 200 Caplets with Royal Jelly and Bee Propolis Vegetarian, Non-GMO, Gluten Free.
As long as your bees are producing bee wax keeping a bee feeder in the hive can help speed up that process. When bees produce honeycomb bees need 6 to 8 pounds of honey for every 1 pound of bee wax. In the morning, re-fill and set out again.Honey bee feed can provide food when natural supplies are not available to both sustain or stimulate bees. At night, bring them inside to prevent moisture buildup. Place your stations a good distance from the hive, and somewhat protected - there will be a lot of activity.īring the buckets out in the morning and set them in the same spot every day. I have never seen any conflict at my open pollen feeding stations. The bees are attracted by the honey smell and then quickly clue in to the “pollen.” Do not open-feed sugar syrup, as the bees fight over syrup. The first day, bait the bucket with a drizzle of honey on the rim. Put “pollen” into bucket set out in yard on its side so the lid acts as a gate (so the bee’s wing action won’t blow the “pollen” out of the bucket). Strategy: cut-off two-thirds of the lid of a 5-gallon bucket snap the remainder of the lid back onto the bucket. If you like, feed commercial pollen substitute by sifting it to break up the clumps. As time goes on and the days get shorter and colder, it is normal for them to take less and less. Sift the mixture together and put about 2 cups into the bucket every day while the bees are flying. The point is to keep the bees busy and happy foraging at home, not at my neighbor’s house. I don’t do this to provide protein to my hives (it does to some extent, but isn’t significant) I feed to give my bees something productive to do in my own yard. So I open-feed “pollen substitute” in the fall after the flow shuts off. Pretty soon the neighbor’s back porch is “abuzz” with activity, and it only takes one complaint to create a Bee Ordinance. Bees pick up sand, sawdust, birdseed, or maybe even soda in some cans in a recycling bin on a neighbor’s back porch, etc., to bring home to the hive.
I see that the Kushlan mixer that I use is no longer on the market. Many years, we have a warm spell after the first frost and the bees can fly, but find nothing in the “field.” In the absence of nectar and pollen, our bees start foraging for alternative sources of carbs and protein. To most, I still add a corn/canola oil blend, food grade dried egg yolk, ground up multivitamin/minerals, some citric acid or lemon juice, and a splash of HBH or ProHealth as a feeding stimulant.
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